As with the power card, I suggest only cutting one of these cards initially, from some of your thickest 3 mm acrylic. Use that card to test fit your circuit boards and test fit in the card slots before cutting the other one.
Step 1. Modify the Card for SATA Power
Adapting this board to SATA power is a little easier than it was with the router, because the EF4124 comes with its own internal 3.3V power supply. All you have to do is remove the cable and solder it to one of the SATA adapters you made earlier.
Step 2. Laser Cut Acrylic Parts (Modify as Necessary)
I’ve seen at least 3 different versions of the board for this switch and I have no idea how many Linksys/Cisco made. I provide 2 different designs for the card in the provided Inkscape file pack. If you’re lucky, both of your switches will match my files. If you’re not — sorry, you’ll have to modify the design for your boards. If you must modify the design, make good use of your calipers whenever possible in determining what changes must be made.
My best recommendation is to measure the boards carefully first and compare to the measurements of the parts in the file. That way, you may at least be able to tell which one is the correct file for your switches. If you have to cut an acrylic part to test its fit, cut and assemble the tray first and try fitting the board with it before cutting the top.
Step 3. Glue Acrylic Parts
The process of cutting and assembling the parts for this card is essentially the same as the process for the power cards. Please refer to that step if you have any questions about the general procedure for assembling these cards.
Step 4. Assemble the Finished Parts
The procedure for assembling this card is the same as it was for the other two cards you already assembled. Just use zip ties and trim them when you’re done.
The finished ethernet switch card will look like this.
|5. Router Card||6. Ethernet Switch Cards||7. Case Central Structure|